Paradise, paradores and marzipan

I have travelled a lot in my time, but sometimes, a moment and a place stand out in your memory for ever!

I have had a few of those moments this year.

And here is one of them!

I was away with Map Travel, with a group of Irish journalists, led by Marian Benton of Map Travel – who are the exclusive agents for the Paradores in Ireland.

And while I organised the trip on their behalf and brought the press along, it was a huge educational for me, and that experience I am still talking about.

And it built up day by day.

This trip was arranged around the Paradores close to Madrid, around the area known as La Mancha – Don Quixote country!

For those of who do not know about Paradores or who have never been to one, they are a unique network of 93 state owned hotels through Spain and the Canaries – and their key usp is that they are – in the main – authentically resorted heritage buildings.

So. We spent our first night at the Parador in Siquenza. Stunning building.

Loved my room in this medieval castle dating back to the 5th century.

Loved the medieval town and its cobbled streets – thank god I changed my shoes. And I even found a bag shop.

The cathedral dates from 1130 – saw an El Greco painting –and stunning ceilings.

Night 2. Cuenca.  Ah yes. Hanging houses, steep gorges, and time to sneak away – in fact all of us did – for a little CAVA in the village square to watch the world go by.    Our Parador in Cuenca was a 17th century Dominican convent.

Our next parador-  Chincon.  The history of Chincon, a medieval town 48kms south of Madrid, is famous for bullfights and also for the history of the Count of Chincon  - his wife is credited with bringing quinine back to Europe from Peru- where he was Viceroy.

History there – and we all found some shops as well. The inveterate shopper strikes again!

Segovia was pretty cool  – particularly the stunning sight of the 2000 year old Roman aquaduct, one of the best preserved monuments of Imperial Rome.

And the shops I might add – got a great pair of purple shoes here!

I skip here to our last parador – Avila. Memories here of the Monastery of Saint Teresa of Avila, the wonderful castle walls and paradoxically renditions of So Long Farewell I hate to say goodbye from the Sound of Music – sung and demonstrated beautifully by Madeleine Keane of the Sunday Independent, and Elvis Presley done by Cleo Murphy, accompanied by the best value Rioja anywhere bought in the local supermarket – just €3 for Gran Reserva Rioja.

But I have kept the best wine – excuse the pun - until last.

Picture 2 scenes, all around Toledo -

Scene 1.

We were on the balcony of the Parador de Toledo, a former manor house with STUNNING views over the city and the river below. An insurance company had done some crazy stunt for a conference and had lit up the whole town in a beautiful way. And as the sun went down, this ancient city lit up in an incredible way – all its monasteries, churches and the cathedral – said to be the richest in Spain.   And then, to cap all that, there was an eclipse of the moon.

I could not speak. And neither could anyone else. The effect was mesmerizing.

I am a lucky person.

Scene 2

I LOVE marzipan. I really LOVE marzipan. And I was told that Toledo is not only famous for its marzipan but the best is made by the nuns of the local convents.

By accident, when wandering down the cobbled streets around the cathedral with our guide, she pointed out a marzipan making convent. I rang the bell, was admitted mysteriously, rang another bell in this cloistered building, and then purchased my marzipan from this young, beautiful, serene, far eastern nun.

A magical experience. And I did not share my marzipan, readers!

If you like history, geography and have a sense of adventure, visit the Paradores of Spain. Paradise.I’ll be back!

Aileen Eglington

Summer 2011